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A devil's current sweeps past a yalı (waterside mansion) between Kandilli and Anadoluhisarı on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus. Ideal for a spot of fishing.
For most visitors to Istanbul, the Asian shore of the Bosphorus is the ultimate escape from the mad, bad city. Hire a boat in Anadoluhisarı, and take your time.
Kuzguncuk, just below the First Bosphorus Bridge is the most accessible and most characterful, and it is easily reached by taking a ferry to Üsküdar. Because it is downstream of the First Bosphorus Bridge, it is described in the City Bosphorus section of Cornucopia 52. After the First Bosphorus Bridge, Beylerbeyı, Çengelköy, Vanıköy, Kandilli, Anadoluhisarı, Kanlıca, Paşabahçe and Beykoz are the main ports of call. Beyond is Anadolufeneri. Of late Beylerbeyi and Çengelköy have become rather nightmarish to get to by car, so it is worth checking out the city line's Bosphorus ring service.
These villages and their yalıs and palaces are covered in the Bosphorus section of the online guide. Boats are few and far between. See timetable for standard ferries, the best to take. If you want to base yourself on the Bosphorus, we strongly recommend the Sumahan on the Water in Çengelköy – in winter you get a long-buring fire in bedroom, and the view of the Topkapı framed by the First Bosphorus Bridge is dreamlike.
The most magical and instructive book to take on your expedition is an album of 19th-century photographs published by the Pera Museum: From Konstantiniyye to Istanbul: The Anatolian Shore.
Buses and minibuses all day long, but nightmare traffic at weekends. So use the ferries if you can or hire a boat.
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