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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionThis fish restaurant close to the Beylerbeyi iskele is more famous for its history than its food (although the view of the Bosphorus flanked by the First Bosphorus Bridge is pretty spectacular).
The restaurant is housed in the former yalı of Münevver Ayaşlı, novelist, journalist and sufi, who would host parties in her drawing room. She recalled the historian Steven Runciman sailing by on the Sunday ferry after tea in Kandilli with English friends. Her young guests swam off the quay – in flippers, without which you were swept out to sea. When Münevver Hanım died in 1999, aged 93, a tour company had already taken over the garden, filling it with tables and tat. The Viennese upright grand vanished long ago.
Issue 66, December 2023
Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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