By Alexandra de Cramer | February 10, 2025
Öktem Aykut Gallery
Toygun Özdemir Unforced Errors, Coincidences and Lost Years January 10, 2025 – February 08, 2025
Unforced Errors, Coincidences, and Lost Years marked Toygun Özdemir’s fifth solo exhibition at Öktem Aykut Gallery, featuring a carefully curated collection of 22 works created over the past three years. This series...
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Barbarossa's 1540s baths – the Cinili Hamam in Istanbul's Zeyrek district – opens with a flourish
By Alexandra de Cramer photography by Monica Fritz | February 1, 2025
This tile panel was originally located in the men’s hot room. The eight rectangular tiles are adorned with Persian couplets in nasta‘līq script from a poem highlighting the hamam's significance in Ottoman literary tradition. Poets such as Nâbî, Fuzulî, and Nedîm were all inspired by the vibrant social and aesthetic...
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Hungarian Jazz at the Naval Museum
By John Shakespeare Dyson | January 28, 2025
On December 15 I attended a jazz concert by Hungarian musicians at the Beşiktaş Naval Museum. The performers were the pianist and song-writer Peter Sárik (the group’s leader), double-bass player Tibor Fonay and drummer Attila Galfi, the trio’s speciality being jazzed-up versions of classical pieces. Actually, that isn’t quite as...
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Esra Özdoğan's The Ghost in the Machine at Galeri Nev
By Alexandra de Cramer | January 8, 2025
Esra Özdoğan's solo exhibition,
The Ghost in the Machine, curated by Çağla Özbek, invites viewers into a world where the boundaries between life, death and illusion are constantly shifting. The title, drawn from the British philosopher Gilbert Ryle’s concept of the 'ghost' inhabiting the 'machine' of the body, offers a framework...
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By Alexandra de Cramer | January 8, 2025
‘making paste from rain/you may ask - how?/to dream long enough/for fermentation’ These lines, part of a poem by the multidisciplinary artist Sine İçli, are positioned in the lower-left corner of the opening wall – an ode to clay and its transformative process. This poem introduces İçli’s first solo exhibition...
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Beyoğlu bids farewell to another fine art gallery
By Alexandra de Cramer | January 7, 2025
Archive signifies the closing of a chapter for Versus Art Project as they bid farewell to their iconic white cube gallery in Istanbul—a space distinguished by its apartment-like layout, soaring ceilings and exposed moldings. For 12 years, the gallery has occupied Hanif Han, an exceptional example of Istanbul’s Art Nouveau...
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By Alexandra de Cramer | January 1, 2025
The Istanbul-born Armenian conceptual artist Sarkis’s fifth solo exhibition,
Children’s Rain Call with the Colours of the Rainbow, offers a playful exploration of collective healing. Inspired by workshops he led with children at the Venice and Mardin Biennales, the exhibition invites viewers to engage with the universal experience of rain,...
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Gábor Csalog at the Beşiktaş Naval Museum
By John Shakespeare Dyson | December 30, 2024
On October 21 I walked down the hill from the Kedili Park (Cats Park), by the Harbiye Military Museum to Maçka, and on down Süleyman Seba Caddesi to Beşiktaş, where I met up with my companion for a concert by the Hungarian pianist Gábor Csalog at the Beşiktaş Naval Museum....
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Our trip in photos
By Text and photographs by Monica Fritz | December 29, 2024
Don McCullin and his wife, Catherine Fairweather, take in the dramtic view at dawn as our new travelling companion and local Hüseyin Bey nonchalantly strolls, feeling very much at home on the fire altar and in the mountains. Nemrut, how to visit: Nemrut can be reached from both the Adiyaman and Malatya...
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Photography, Travel, - Monica at large
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By Alexandra de Cramer | December 29, 2024
Two marks Ayda Demirci second solo exhibition at the Ambidexter Gallery (until December 28, 2024), presenting a series of abstract oil on linen and canvas works created in 2024. The title reflects the “binary bond between the paintings, sometimes formed by shared dimensions, simultaneous creation, or by similarity and contrast,”...
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Highlights Turkey
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Battle of the big bands
By John Shakespeare Dyson | December 21, 2024
On November 01 I went to the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall in Harbiye to witness an unusual event – a jazz concert involving two orchestras playing simultaneously on the same stage. Although the event was advertised as a ‘clash’, it was in reality a friendly cooperation, an experiment whose...
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Music & Performing Arts, - Jazz, - Musical Shares
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By John Shakespeare Dyson | December 1, 2024
ISTANBUL Nardis The longest-running jazz club in Turkey is Nardis, close to the Galata Tower. Opened in 2002 by guitarist and jazz mentor Önder Focan and his wife Zuhal, who runs Jazz Dergisi (‘Jazz Magazine’), it hosts over 300 Turkish and foreign musicians every year. Concerts – of which there...
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By John Shakespeare Dyson | November 25, 2024
On October 16 I made my way to the Süreyya Opera House in Kadıköy to hear the violinist Bahar Büyükgönenç and the pianist Tutu Aydınoğlu play works by Zoltán Kodály, Johannes Brahms, Manuel de Falla, Robert Schumann and Fikret Amirov. For the first time I had the privilege of sitting...
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Jazz pianists Aydın and Cenk Esen mesmerise at the opening of the new Rahşan Düren exhibition, ‘Verwegenheit’
By John Shakespeare Dyson | November 10, 2024
On October 15 I made my way to Beyoğlu for the opening of an exhibition of paintings by the artist Rahşan Düren entitled
Verwegenheit, which I believe means ‘audacity’ or ‘boldness’ in German. I had been told that Aydın Esen, described as the best jazz pianist in the world by...
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Exhibitions, Music & Performing Arts, - Jazz
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Zenia Duell admires a magnificent Uzbek recasting of Handel's Tamerlano
By Zenia Duell | November 9, 2024
The curtain rose to reveal an enormous sculpture of a horse’s head, equalling the height of the theatre and encased in a cube of LED-lit scaffolding. This was the opening night of Handel’s
Tamerlano, presented by the Uzbekistan Art and Culture Development Foundation, directed by Stefano Poda and performed at...
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Music & Performing Arts, - Opera
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By Alexandra de Cramer | October 22, 2024
Opening night. The triptych in the background is titled Repair/Lapis Lazuli by Ahmet Doğu İpek. Galerist kicked off the 2024-2025 art season with the exhibition
Distilled From Scattered Blue, curated by Károly Aliotti, who brings a wealth of experience from his roles at Meşher and Arkas. The show features the diverse work of...
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Join us at the Chiswick Book Festival in London on Saturday
By Andrew Finkel | September 13, 2024
I am looking forward to participating in the Chiswick Book Festival this Saturday afternoon to talk about my novel
The Adventure of the Second Wife, a tale that revolves around the last great Ottoman Sultan, AbdulhamidII’s fascination with Sherlock Holmes. I will be speaking to Prof. Maureen Freely, a distinguished...
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By Andrew Finkel | September 11, 2024
A friend once confessed the frustration of setting a story in Istanbul, a city where not even the past stands still. The place you think you should start is never the place you actually start – and umpteen drafts later you find yourself starting from somewhere different again. And so it...
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Why isn't Cem Mansur's astonishing Turkish Youth Orchestra touring the globe
By John Shakespeare Dyson | August 26, 2024
On July 24 I went to the Atatürk Cultural Centre to see the Turkish Youth Philharmonic Orchestra, the brainchild of conductor Cem Mansur, perform in a programme of works by Hector Berlioz, Sergei Rachmaninov, the young Turkish composer Ege Gür and Sergei Prokofiev. (I thank Mr Mansur for kindly providing...
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Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares
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Gounod’s Faust, Sheherazade’s Istanbul connections and the brilliant Edgar Moreau
By John Shakespeare Dyson | August 17, 2024
On Sunday June 9 I went to the Atatürk Cultural Centre in Taksim Square to attend the last orchestral concert of the 52nd İKSV Istanbul Music Festival. This event featured the Tekfen Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Aziz Shokhakimov, and the French cellist Edgar Moreau (photograph by Salih Üstündağ) in a...
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