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After our lavish Istanbul museums issue (No 60), we escape the city altogether. Sir Don McCullin, whose retrospective opens at Tate Liverpool in the autumn, sets off with the author Barnaby Rogerson on the road to ancient Pergamon.
We then head into the mountains of southwest Anatolia, where the conservationist Nicholas Haslam and the French photographer Paul Veysseyre record the vanishing villages of Lake Eğirdir, and Andrew Byfield goes bulb-hunting in the Taurus Mountains.
The avant-garde artist Alexis Gritchenko, a refugee from the Russian Civil War who spent nearly two years in Istanbul in 1919–21, brings vibrant colour to our cover. His work is celebrated this year by the Meşher gallery in Beyoğlu. Plus: Ice Cool – magically simple recipes for sherbets and sorbets.
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The botanist Andrew Byfield relives the happy days on Bozdağ, in the Taurus Mountains. Flowers thrive there in the harsh climate on bare limestone cliffs and in fractured gullies, and cedar of Lebanon and black pine brave all that nature can throw at them
Can ingenious new ideas coupled with old country wisdom stave off the long-predicted death of the Anatolian village? We sent two keen conservationists to Turkey’s lake district. The writer Nicholas Haslam found reasons for hope. The photographer Paul Veysseyre captured the poignant beauty of its tumbledown houses
In 1919 the Ukrainian artist Alexis Gritchenko fled Russia for Istanbul. Here he befriended Turkish artists and walked the streets, keeping a diary and making sketches, then applying ‘dynamos’ of colour. A new exhibition throws light on his stay in the city
A shared fascination with the Roman Empire impelled Britain’s greatest photographer, Sir Donald McCullin, to join the writer Barnaby Rogerson on a foray to the Troad to capture Rome’s Aegean legacy
Roger Norman looks back over the life of the late historian and writer Norman Stone – always unconventional, sometimes difficult, frequently mischievous – who, after less-than-happy times teaching at Oxford and Cambridge and a stint as an adviser to Margaret Thatcher, chose to make his home in Turkey
Centuries ago, travellers to Turkey were amazed by a new, uplifting taste sensation: the sherbet, flowery or fruity, and served with ice. Berrin Torolsan traces the history of sherbets and the sorbets made from them, and serves up an irresistible array of cooling summery treats
Istanbul without coffee houses is a day without sun. It was here that they were born, and they are still as individual and interesting as their clientele. Savour them while you can, says Andrew Finkel. Photo essay by Monica Fritz
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