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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionAndrew Finkel has been a journalist based in Turkey since 1989, and has corresponded for a variety of print and broadcast media including The Daily Telegraph, The Times, The Economist, TIME, The Art Newspaper and CNN. More unusually, he has worked in the Turkish language press both in the news room and as a featured columnist. His free-lance articles and editorials have appeared in a large number of publications including The Washington Post, The Guardian, the Observer, Foreign Affairs, The Financial Times, Le Monde Diplomatique and in the Latitudes column of the New York Times.
He is also a founding member of P24, an Istanbul-based NGO that supports independent journalism. Finkel has written for Cornucopia since its inception and is a contributing editor as well as the magazine’s restaurant critic. His handbook, Turkey, What Everyone Needs to Know is published by Oxford University Press and a novel, The Adventure of the Second Wife will be published later this year.
Andrew Finkel looks back on happy days roaming with Bob
The effervescent Bob Chenciner Andrew Finkel pays tribute to a polymath who illuminated a lost world, and Barnaby Rogerson shares memories of one of the last of ‘a dwindling regiment of free scholars’
Chinese, Thai, Indian and Syrian cuisines are succeeding spectacularly in Istanbul. Andrew Finkel samples some of the best, and is impressed
Annette Louise Solakoğlu is a Swedish–German photographer and filmmaker who has adopted Istanbul as her new home. Her images of the city, which avoid colour, cliché and all but a very few people, are both poetic and strangely powerful. Their enigmatic beauty intrigues Andrew Finkel
Ever since it was founded in 1945 on the edge of Istanbul, people have flocked to eat at Beyti’s, the grill house that taught the city the importance of Sunday lunch. The journey, says Andrew Finkel, is always worth the effort
Thanks to the virus, it’s been a year of eating in rather than dining out for Andrew Finkel, bar a brief respite in the summer, when he escaped to a few choice restaurants. Luckily, Istanbul’s markets still offer the best of seasonal ingredients, and online the range of new taste sensations to explore is limitless
Istanbul without coffee houses is a day without sun. It was here that they were born, and they are still as individual and interesting as their clientele. Savour them while you can, says Andrew Finkel. Photo essay by Monica Fritz
The grainy black and white images of Ara Güler evoke the vanished world of post-war Istanbul like no others, says Andrew Finkel, and the stories they tell never leave us
From comfortable old-style charm to unashamed new-wavetrendiness, Andrew Finkel goes insearch of the feel-good factor
Andrew Finkel wonders how long Turkey will take to heal its self-inflicted woundsafter July’s abortive coup, bemoans the fate of the Feriköy graveyard, and treats himselfto a trip to Cappadocia for the otherworldly Cappadox Festival
Istanbul is suddenly full of powerful and unsettling art. Andrew Finkel feels the pain at this year’s Biennal.
Andrew Finkel goes in search of something new. He hits the bullseye with a cheap and cheerful joint serving scrumptious Syrian food, and an Oriental fantasy with modern meze.
Andrew Finkel pays tribute to his friend and inspiration, the late John Freely, author of the definitive guide, ‘Strolling Through Istanbul’. Ever curious, always surprising, his gargantuan appetite for life made him so much more than the sum of his 65 books.
Andrew Finkel pays tribute to his friend and inspiration, the late John Freely, author of the definitive guide, ‘Strolling Through Istanbul’. Ever curious, always surprising, his gargantuan appetite for life made him so much more than the sum of his 65 books
Andrew Finkel savours the best food on the city’s streets, from grilled meatballs and stuffed mussels to ‘topik’ and ‘simit’
Past capital of empires, and heir to an uninterrupted urban tradition that stretches back millennia, Istanbul is all the tourist posters claim. Andrew Finkel traces its history.
Hidden among the concrete blocks of Teşvikiye is a magnificent mansion riddled with mystery. Masquerading as a Venetian palazzo, Tozan House has disappearing passages, secret stairs and eccentricities it shares with its creator. Andrew Finkel investigates. Photographs by Simon Upton
Andrew Finkel has come to the conclusion that it’s time to put his money where his mouth is and join other journalists in doing all it takes to defend the integrity and independence of the Turkish press
You could work up an appetite simply picking a restaurant for dinner in today’s Istanbul, such is the array of styles, genres and cuisines on offer. Keeping his options open, Andrew Finkel samples the fare at three of the city’s most creative, genre-bending establishments
Andrew Finkel on the late David Stoliar (1922–2014), who survived the sinking of the Struma
Stone from Malta, timber from Trieste, tiles from Marseilles, and money from England…
A monument to Victorian Gothic. By Geofrey Tyack
These are the last great heathlands of Eastern Europe, one of the world’s rarest natural habitats. Unless they receive a last-minute reprieve, they will be bulldozed out of existence. Andrew Finkel reports on the dilemma facing the planners in Istanbul
Dipping into a Mediterranean idyll, Stephen and Nina Solarz have built a haven high above the harbour of Kalkan. Andrew Finkel paid them a visit. Photographs by James Mortimer
This is the starting point for any visitor, the very heart of two great empires. Andrew Finkel explores a world of beauty and grandeur dusting itself down for a third millennium
Cornucopia’s tribute to Istanbul’s endangered railway stations
There has been no road map in the life of Josephine Powell. As restless as the nomadic tribes she followed, she has simply let things happen. But along the way, she has become a photographer and an expert on the nomads of Turkey and their textiles. And now she dreams of a permanent home for her exceptional kilims and photographs. Andrew Finkel pays tribute to a remarkable friend
Old favourites and new attractions: Andrew Finkel samples Istanbul’s best meyhanes. Photographs by Simon Wheeler
She was born to be a New York society beauty, but the late Josephine Powell’s chosen world was that of the Anatolian Nomad. Five years after her death, her archive of photographs recording old Anatolia in all its glory will see the light of day in Istanbul
Once the Jewel in the Ottoman crown, Edirne is now a somnolent backwater on the Turkish borders of Greece and Bulgaria. Caroline and Andrew Finkel catch glimpses of its glorious past.
In a 36-page tribute, Cornucopia offers five contrasting views of the largest of the Princes Islands, Büyükada. Distant enough for monastic retreat and political exile, close enough for the summer migration of Istanbul’s bourgeoisie, this beguiling island has a tranquil past but a perilous future. Andrew Finkel looks back with affection on thirty years of summer holidays; John Carswell records his first impressions; Elizabeth Meath Baker and Angela Berzeg unlock the doors to three of its most fascinating houses
It is relatively old, decidedly large and incontrovertibly pink. Sultans stayed in it, Liszt played in it, and when it finds its new owner, it will become the last of the grand Istanbul waterfront houses to be parted for ever from the family it was built for. By Andrew Finkel. Photographs by David George
The Anastasian and Theodosian walls together protected the city for many years; but now this vast and beautiful network is under attack from within. Cornucopia investigates the dangers that threaten this important cultural icon and its surroundings.
Orhan Kemal’s prison memoirs are compressed into a slim but remarkable volume.
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