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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionThe strait that links the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara is the reason for Istanbul’s pre-eminence and offers days of leisurely exploration: classic shore walks, Baroque palaces, yalıs (waterside mansions) and excellent museums. Boating on the Bosphorus was described in Cornucopia 1, now a rare collector's item, while today's delights are explored in 224 pages of Cornucopia 52, Bosphorus Requiem, part 3 of our 'Istanbul Unwrapped' series. Cornucopia 57 devotes fourteen pages to the magnificent 19th-century panormas of the Bosphorus painted by Joseph Schrantz, and includes fold-out pages of his 241cm-wide view from Kandilli.
Here the Bosphorus is Istanbul: we explore the area between the Galata Bridge and the First Bosphorus Bridge: arty Karaköy, dazzling Dolmabahçe Palace, busy Beşiktas, leafy Yıldız and Ortaköy.
In high summer Istanbul's riviera is Cannes without the crowds. July’s turquoise blue turns bottle-green after the snow. We head upstream to discover Istanbul's most sought-after urban villages.
The towns of Kadıköy and Üsküdar dominate the Asian side of inner-city Istanbul. We head from the tea gardens of Moda via Üsküdar's hilltop mosques to the bohemian backwater of Kuzguncuk.
On the way to the Black Sea, the Asian side catches glorious sunsets, and some of the finest yalıs and best panoramic viewpoints are here, as well as attractive small villages.
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