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This is an utterly, amazingly timeless establishment that has outlived its old white Russian rival, Rejans (which had gone downhill terribly when they added a shiny new floor). Borsch is followed by Boeuf Stroganoff and Chicken Kievski, washed down with excellent, warming vodka. All on a crisp white tablecloth, and pretty reasonable too. This tiny restaurant lives on for 60 whole years. You may not be in gastronomic heaven, but its very existence is what counts. Perfect for a winter’s day.
Issue 66, December 2023
Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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