Who needs museums when you have shops like this? Orlando Carlo Calumeno has the world’s largest collection of Ottoman postcards and panoramas, dating from 1895 to 1919, and thousands of collectible objets that illuminate daily life in Turkey in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Each group is arranged in imaginative, constantly changing little evolving vitrines.

A recent group comprised late-Ottoman, early Republic rakı bottles and bottle labels, including this famous, exotic Douzico label (as featured in Mr Calumeno’s advertisement in Cornucopia 52).

Hak Pasajı is the secret epicentre of Nişantaşı life. Neighbours include excellent tailors who will do magical alterations to suits, jackets and trousers, and knock you up a suit if needs be, as well as the famous Migros’daki Ayakabacı – the Cobbler at Migros, except that Migros, the supermarket, moved on. The passage leads from Teşvikiye Caddesi to modest Akkavak Sokağı, where, if you turn left, you will find Kantin, a superb little gourmet restaurant. Turn right and two doors along is the excellent Bosnian pudding shop Zeynel.