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The small tenth-century church of the Myrelaion, now the Bodrum Mosque, is infuriating to find in the bustling markets of Lâleli. From Ordu Caddesi take the street just opposite the Lâleli Mosque, then first right, and climb the stairs to the platform. It was part of the palace of Emperor Romanos Lekapenos, which stood on the adjoining platform now occupied by a jerry-rigged bazaar. If the imam can find the key, ask to see the Byzantine burial chapel in the basement.
Issue 66, December 2023
Turkey’s Centenary Issue
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