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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionWhere Beyoğlu's merchants reaped their rich rewards.
Karaköy, at the head of the Galata Bridge, is at the heart of Istanbul’s old docks. On one side lies Tophane, Istanbul’s trendy new arts district, on the other the incomparable hardware district. Enjoy it while you can.
The cool end of the docks: from grime and crime to high art, hedonism and café society, the northern end of the Galata docks is enjoyed a magical transformation in the last decade but is still, happily, laced with old-fashioned grit.
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