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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionPatricia Daunt and the photographer Fritz von der Schulenburg record a work in progress on Turkey’s western Mediterranean coast
Sema Menteşeoğlu returned to Köyceğiz in 1992, after thirty years, to find her family home in perilous disrepair. The black steward, linchpin of the estate, had died. Much of the land had been sold. And just a handful of people remained in the ancestral village. Her great-grandfather Ali Rıza Pasha had built the small but handsome and airy house in 1878. Sema, an artist trained in Italy, set about putting house and estate in order.
Sema Menteşeoğlu’s konak in Köyceğiz also appears in At Home in Turkey, by Berrin Torolsan and Solvi dos Santos
Minutes from the Mediterranean, Lake Köyceğiz is a beautiful backwater lost in time. Cornucopia devotes 40 pages to the lake, its people, its unique basket houses and the house that Ali Rıza Pasha built.
If the thought of offal makes you wince, be bold. Overcome your fears and your efforts will be handsomely rewarded. Berrin Torolsan goes head over heels for offal, with a range of dishes for the timorous and the die-hard.
More cookery features
The whole of the Köyceğiz area is famous for its dwellings of woven wood. The best surviving ones are in Hamitköy, on the lake’s western shore. These unique primitive habitations, now abandoned for concrete apartments, probably date back to antiquity
The sad, heroic history of Gallipoli is written in every gully and ridge of the beautiful peninsula. William Gurney combs the battleground for clues
When Sultan Abdülaziz embarked on his unprecendented state tour of Europe in 1867, no expense was spared in making him welcome. What most impressed him, it seems, were the musical extravaganzas: visits to the opera, glittering concerts and massed choirs trained to sing his praises in Turkish
Ateş Orga reviews Moshinsky’s Mozar in Turkey
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