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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionShe was the wife of the Sultan’s court painter and mother to four children. But Elisa Zonaro was also an artist in her own right, a pioneering female photographer in Abdülhamid II’s Istanbul. Philip Mansel celebrates a free-spirited trailblazer
Few cities have been as fully recorded by one single man as Istanbul was by Fausto Zonaro. Arriving at the age of 36 in 1890, he felt, as he wrote in his memoirs, the “astonishing, intoxicating effect, beyond anything that could be imagined” of “this earthly paradise”. With the brilliance of his 1,200 pictures and his memoirs, published in Turkish in 2008 and in English in 2011 by the authority on Zonaro, Erol Makzume, Zonaro left an incomparable record of the Ottoman capital’s last years of imperial glory. He painted everyone and everywhere, from pashas and princes to street barbers and firefighters, from the Sweet Waters of Asia to the Golden Horn.
Don McCullin and Barnaby Rogerson travel back in time, elated by the enduring power of Mithras, god of the sun
The botanical artistry of Işık Güner, by Harriet Rix
Sweet but with a tang, boza is a favourite winter drink. Restorative, gently uplifting, it inspires mellow conversation and is a cornerstone of Istanbul life, while the nocturnal cry of its street-sellers, a not-quite-distant memory, is still the stuff of poetry. By Berrin Torolsan
Joachim Meyer, of Copenhagen’s David Collection, on the powerful aura of Islamic calligraphy
An exhibition in London reveals the Islamic art that captivated William Morris. By Thomas Roueché
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