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Buy a digital subscription Go to the Digital EditionOnce it was the hub of commercial life, its shores lined with bustling quays and the biggest concentration of mosques, churches and synagogues in the city. But the tide turned on this famous Bosphorus inlet and it became a backwater lined with gently crumbling districts of old palaces, city walls and shrines, places to discover as you head for the great monuments on the hills.
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