Simplicity was never this complicated

Andrew Finkel continues his popular food blog with a visit to the proudly individual Rutin, photographs by Monica Fritz

By Andrew Finkel | May 1, 2024


Rutin is a tiny, determinedly informal restaurant in a wiggly backstreet of Istanbul’s Beyoğlu (pictured above by Monica Fritz). It translates as ‘routine’, but this strikes me as being a misnomer for what is in many ways a puzzling establishment. Far from being humdrum, Rutin appears to be out on...

A world apart: the London Islamic Sales

By Cornucopia Connoisseur | April 21, 2024


An afternoon at the Sotheby's and Christie's during Islamic Sales Week is always full of intrigue and beauty. The Russian court was full of Ottoman treasures. Catherine the Great's crowned cipher the year 1789 have been added on top of the handle of this splendid agate Ottoman cup, set with...

The rough with the smooth

By John Shakespeare Dyson | April 21, 2024

Having recently been to see Rossini’s Maometto Secundo at the Atatürk Cultural Centre, and having had my appetite for opera whetted as a result, I resolved to repeat the experience. Accordingly, on Thursday March 14 I revisited the AKM (Atatürk Kültür Merkezi), this time to see the Istanbul State Symphony...

Maometto Secundo

By John Shakespeare Dyson | March 16, 2024


It had been far too long since I had been to the opera in Istanbul, so on February 28 I made a visit to the Atatürk Cultural Centre to attend a performance of Gioachino Rossini’s two-act opera Maometto Secundo (‘Mehmet II’), first performed in Naples in 1820. Suffice it to...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Musical Shares, - Opera

Tightrope jazz

İmer Demirer, Ali Perret, Meriç Demirkol and Raci Pişmişoğlu at BOVA

By John Shakespeare Dyson | March 4, 2024


On Sunday February 18 I visited Bova, a small jazz club located in Mis Sokak, Beyoğlu. My companion and I had booked early, and so were given the privilege of sitting very close to the stage. The musicians who entertained us were trumpeter İmer Demirer, pianist Ali Perret, saxophonist Meriç...

Randy Esen

By John Shakespeare Dyson | February 25, 2024


The last time I heard Randy Esen sing was in July 2019, when she was performing at Uniq Istanbul with three other musicians: her husband Aydın Esen on piano and keyboards, Tommy Campbell on drums and Greg Jones on bass guitar. In my blog on this mega-memorable gig I wrote...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Jazz, - Musical Shares

The third way

In the backstreets of uppercrust Suadiye, Andrew Finkel seeks out a rare culinary species: a chef who cooks what he likes

By Andrew Finkel. Photographs by Monica Fritz | February 5, 2024


A slow-braised rib of beef wrapped in yufka pastry, served on chilli lime yoghurt with smoked paprika oil I have suffered these long years from a split gastronomic personality.  One of my selves seeks out Istanbul restaurants that have a practised understanding of the demands of their genre – the...

Stern stuff, but a sumptuous feast

Prokofiev and Bruckner at the Atatürk Cultural Centre

By John Shakespeare Dyson | February 1, 2024


The programme for the concert I attended at the Atatürk Cultural Centre in Taksim Square on January 5, 2024 consisted of only two works: Prokofiev’s Violin Concerto No 1 in D major and Bruckner’s Symphony No 4. Both were played by the Istanbul State Symphony Orchestra under the direction of...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Luminous LARTA

A feast of antique rugs and textiles in Battersea

By Cornucopia Connoisseur | January 24, 2024


There is something truly wonderful about the the London Antique Rugs and Textile Fair this year. It has slightly fewer exhibitors – 15 in all, which means some friends are missing – but it means their woven treasures can be seen from afar as well as close up, and have...

A master’s voice

İlyas Mirzayev’s Cello Concerto and a tribute to the inspirational conductor Saim Akçıl

By John Shakespeare Dyson | January 5, 2024


On December 2 I attended a concert at the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall at which the CRR Symphony Orchestra was conducted by Mr Rengim Gökmen, one of Turkey’s leading wielders of the baton. This was one of a series of concerts – entitled Yüzyılın Yüzleri (‘The Century’s Faces’) –...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Éliane Reyes

The first of two reviews looking back on autumn's hightlights

By John Shakespeare Dyson | December 23, 2023


On November 1 I made another visit to Istanbul's Notre Dame de Sion French Lycée in Harbiye to attend a concert by the Belgian pianist Éliane Reyes. This was the second of the musical events organised by this school that I have recently attended, the first having been a concert...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Celebrating the centenary

An inspiring concert at Notre Dame de Sion Lycée in Harbiye

By John Shakespeare Dyson | November 16, 2023


A large number of concerts of both Turkish and Western classical music were organised in Istanbul to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the inauguration of the Republic of Turkey. Bearing in mind the Republican régime’s emphasis on the provision of education for girls, out of all the available possibilities I...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

The heart of Goldberg

A captivating performance of the Goldberg Variations by Özgür Aydın in memory of Ayşegül Sarıca

By John Shakespeare Dyson | October 31, 2023


The death in March this year of the distinguished Turkish pianist Ayşegül Sarıca, who was trained in Istanbul and Paris, has recently been marked by a performance of Bach's Goldberg Variations by fellow Turkish pianist Özgür Aydın. The concert, subtitled ‘A Day of Respect for Ayşegül Sarıca’, took place on...

Iyi Bayramlar from Kuzguncuk

The Turkish Republic's Anniversary

By Andrew Finkel photos by Monica Fritz | October 29, 2023


The Turkish Republic turns 100 today – not just another candle on the cake, but a reliving of a moment of defiance. A nascent state claimed a very different destiny from that envisaged for it by the European powers who had defeated a weary empire at the end of the...

A meeting of talents: Ozan Musluoğlu Quintet’s recipe for joy

By John Shakespeare Dyson | October 19, 2023


On October 13 I attended a jazz concert by the Ozan Musluoğlu Quintet, a mixed group of Turkish and American musicians, at the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall. It was, of course, Friday the 13th, so I took great care to avoid accidents, chivvying my companion so as not to...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Jazz, - Musical Shares

A journey into uncharted atonal territory

By John Shakespeare Dyson | October 7, 2023

On September 29 I attended a concert at the Zorlu Center – one of the 33rd Akbank Jazz Festival  events – given by the American trumpet-player Terence Blanchard, the ‘E-Collective’ (his backing group) and a string quartet by the name of the ‘Turtle Island Quartet’. I must congratulate the man...

Metin Münir (1944–2023)

By Andrew Finkel | September 27, 2023


Metin Münir was a clarion voice in the Turkish press – a champion of journalistic quality and integrity that penetrated so much fog and even more nonsense. As editor-in-chief and founder of a slew of English- and Turkish-language publications, he encouraged a generation of highly professional journalists. The newspaper Güneş which he...

Les Essences and Pavel Gililov: an exhilarating rhythmic treat

By John Shakespeare Dyson | September 27, 2023

On September 4 I attended a concert at the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall in Harbiye – one of the events of the 3rd Istanbul International Chamber Music Festival, held at this venue. My ticket, which allowed me to sit in the centre of the auditorium and as close to...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Don’s McCullin’s Journeys Across Roman Asia Minor: the Istanbul launch

By John Scott | September 14, 2023

Barnaby Rogerson and Orhan Cem Çetin in conversation with Don McCullin at the Pera Museum: Book Launch / Don McCullin / 10 September 2023 from Orhan Cem Çetin on Vimeo.

Sir Timothy Daunt (1935–2023)

A sad farewell

By Cornucopia | September 4, 2023


On August 8 friends learnt with great sadness of the loss of Sir Timothy Daunt. Sir Timothy was British Ambassador to Turkey from 1986 to 1992 and together with his wife, Patricia, created a bond of friends and friendships rare in modern British-Turkish relations. Their love and understanding of Turkey...
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