That’s the spirit – the Sumahan lives again

Our favourite city escape has just reopened. Andrew Finkel is heading straight for his Bosphorus-side Adirondack chair

By Andrew Finkel | July 14, 2020


The very words ‘hospitality industry’ have always struck me as not just an oxymoron but slightly sinister. In my mind’s eye I see dark satanic mills fuming suntan oil or holiday camp animators with surgically enhanced smiles. But of course it is exactly that US$ 35 billion tourism industry in...

The paper architect

In the first of a series of online exhibition highlights, we remember Nazimî Yaver Yenal (Istanbul Research Institute)

By Rose Shepherd | July 5, 2020


Nazimî Yaver Yenal: Imaginary World of a Paper Architect Istanbul Research Institute The story of Nazimî Yaver Yenal's career as an architect, spanning nearly 50 years, might be seen as one of stellar failure. Born in 1904, he trained at the Imperial School of Fine Arts, where his precocious talents...

Mélodies III: Fauré in Isfahan – the later works

John Shakespeare Dyson completes his series of articles on the French ‘chanson’

By John Shakespeare Dyson | June 27, 2020


With this, the sixth and final instalment in our series of articles on composers of chansons – French art songs – we conclude our exploration of the songs of Gabriel Fauré (1845-1924). In this particular blog we will be examining the songs he wrote later in his life – from...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Bird Island Farm… an inspiring lockdown

How peaceful it is living with 40 animals – much more so than it would be with 40 humans

By Kim Erkan | June 21, 2020


It’s midsummer's day and my daughter, Ceylan, and I have spent two and a half months at Bird Island Farm, the animal sanctuary founded on a hill above the Aegean town of Kuşadası by my grandson Alican’s wife, Chantal Özbaş. It is the kind of place you meet gentle souls...
Posted in Good causes

Mélodies III: Fauré in Isfahan – the middle period

‘Taste, harmonic sensibility, the love of pure lines, of unexpected and colorful modulations’

By John Shakespeare Dyson | June 11, 2020


With this, the fifth instalment in our series of articles on composers who wrote chansons – French art songs – we continue our exploration of the songs of Gabriel Fauré (1845–1924), this time covering his middle period. Previous instalments have focused on the songs of Reynaldo Hahn, Debussy’s earlier and...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Sotheby’s is back with a spectacular Bond Street Arts of the Islamic World & India Sale

On Wednesday, June 10, the auction house launches London’s long-delayed spring sales of Islamic and Indian art

By Cornucopia Connoisseur | June 6, 2020


After an auction-starved spring, hats off to Edward Gibbs, Benedict Carter and the Islamic Department at Sotheby’s London for persevering with their postponed sale Arts of the Islamic World & India including Fine Rugs & Carpets, originally planned for April – and what a handsome sale it is. The sale...
Posted in Islamic Art

Hotbed of passions: memories of the splendid Naum Theatre

Pera’s opera house, star of Istanbul’s cultural scene, survived tempestuous rivalries before going up in smoke on June 5, 1870

By Emre Aracı | June 4, 2020


Exactly 150 years ago, on June 5, 1870, Istanbul’s Italian opera house, the Naum Theatre, burnt to the ground in the great fire of Pera which ravaged a large section of the neighbourhood from Taksim to Galatasaray, including the British Embassy. Fanned by strong winds, the theatre’s ashes were scattered...
Posted in Architecture, Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music

Mélodies III: Fauré in Isfahan – the early works

By John Shakespeare Dyson | May 25, 2020


We now come to the last in our series of explorations of the works of composers of chansons – French art songs. The purpose of the series, which has so far covered Reynaldo Hahn and Achille-Claude Debussy, is to give people something to occupy them while in isolation. This instalment...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

The inspirational Josephine Powell

Josephine Powell, intrepid photographer and nomad-follower, died in 2007. She would have been 101 today

By Monica Fritz | May 15, 2020


‘She was a sort of Canute, trying to halt the tide of modernity she saw eroding the nomad's dignity.’ (‘A nomad among nomads’, by Andrew Finkel, Cornucopia 47) Josephine Powell, photographed by Jürgen Frank (see Cornucopia 30, 2003) … I only met Josephine Powell a few times (writes Monica Fritz),...
Posted in Photography, Travel

Gold stars: Marianne Crebassa and Fazıl Say

Marianne Crebassa and Turkish pianist Fazıl Say at the Wigmore

By John Shakespeare Dyson | May 13, 2020

And now the review of the concert at the Wigmore Hall streamed online on May 11-12. The French mezzo-soprano Marianne Crebassa and Turkish pianist Fazıl Say performed songs by Debussy, Ravel, Fauré and Duparc. Mr Say also played some solo piano pieces by Debussy and Satie, as well as two...

Marianne Crebassa and Fazıl Say at the Wigmore Hall

Some notes on the programme

By John Shakespeare Dyson | May 11, 2020

Truthfully (a prefatory adverb that ought to set alarm bells ringing), I was just preparing a further blog on chansons last week, this time on the songs of Gabriel Fauré, when – lo and behold! – the editor of the august publication in which these pieces appear seized me by...

An invitation to the Wigmore Hall to listen to Marianne Crebassa and Fazıl Say

By John Shakespeare Dyson | May 9, 2020


Every Monday evening the Wigmore Hall releases a video stream of one of its acclaimed recitals, marvellously recorded and (invisibly) filmed live in what the great counter-tenor Philippe Jaroussky described at a recent performance as London's 'temple to music'. Each concert is streamed for 24 hours – from 7.30pm in...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Füsun Onur sets sail for Venice

The pioneer of installation art in Turkey is chosen for the Turkish Pavilion at the 2022 Venice Biennale

By Ahmet Furkan İnan | May 5, 2020


The Venice Biennale, now rescheduled to take place between May and November 2022, offers an exciting opportunity to observe developments in contemporary art across the world as each country projects its own carefully curated examples.  In 2019 the Turkish Pavilion confirmed its growing reputation with İnci Eviner’s installation We, Elsewhere,...

Another quiet day…

… in Moda

By Monica Fritz | May 3, 2020


Spring has arrived in Istanbul, and the ancient gum mastic trees (sakız ağacı) of Moda are just coming into leaf. Only the crowds were missing on May Day… In Cornucopia 52, Monica captured the tree in happier days for Cornucopia's four-part Istanbul Unwrapped series, available on line here. Elsewhere, Moda...
Posted in Photography

Mélodies II: Debussy in Pamphylia – the later works

From Javanese gamelan music to the ‘Songs of Bilitis’ …

By John Shakespeare Dyson | April 29, 2020


This is Part B of the second phase of Mélodies: Debussy in Pamphylia, Fauré in Isfahan, Reynaldo Hahn in Istanbul, a serialised blog intended to keep people’s minds off their troubles while they are in isolation. This one continues an account of the chansons – art songs – of Achille-Claude...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Iris Love (1933–2020)

A tribute to the woman who made headlines by turning the male-dominated world of archaeology upside down

By Rupert Scott | April 28, 2020


On July 21, 1969, in her mid-30s, Iris Love (photographed above by Michael Chesser) made the discovery that would see her become, for a short time, perhaps the most famous archaeologist in the world. She was in her third season of excavations at Cnidus, in the extreme southwest of Turkey ...

Empty quarters

The archaeologist Ulrich Mania’s eye is usually trained on the ruins of ancient Pergamon. Here he records a deserted Istanbul

By Ulrich Mania | April 27, 2020


On a dark Saturday morning in March I set off on my bicycle to explore a silent, empty Istanbul. But my enthusiasm for the idea of experiencing the normally bustling districts of Taksim, Sultanahmet and Üsküdar with no people around quickly gave way to a realisation: how difficult it is to...

Mélodies II: Debussy in Pamphylia – the early works

The second in a series of articles on the French chanson

By John Shakespeare Dyson | April 18, 2020


This is the second part of Mélodies, a serialised blog that is intended to keep people’s minds off their troubles while they are in isolation. Just like the first part (which was about Reynaldo Hahn), this one focusses on a composer who wrote mélodies – French art songs – in...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares

Finding a refuge on Bird Island Farm

By Kim Erkan | April 17, 2020


April 2020, Kuşadası: I was alone in Aydın when quarantine was announced. My family, concerned at my being alone, sent a driver to take me to Bird’s Island Farm, on the hills of Kuşadası, to stay wth my grandson, Alican Ozbaş, his wife, Chantal, their two small sons and my...
Posted in Good causes, Nature

Mélodies I: Reynaldo Hahn in Istanbul

The first of a three-part series in which our music correspondent finds gentle escape in the French Chanson

By John Shakespeare Dyson | April 1, 2020


Mélodies: Debussy in Pamphylia, Fauré in Isfahan, Reynaldo Hahn in Istanbul. This new series of blogs is designed to provide a welcome distraction from for those in isolation, while at the same time introducing them to music that may be new to them and will give them pleasure. It is...
Posted in Music & Performing Arts, - Classical Music, - Musical Shares
Current Events